Thanks to heavy headwinds in both directions, what should have been an easy trip turned out to be quite the workout to North Tea Lake in Algonquin.
As I push away from the shore, the sky is gorgeous, sunny, and warm. Kawawaymog lake is a bit unruly, nothing that I can't handle, but it is kicking up more ruckus than I'd expect. Turbulent water is where I am happiest. This initial zip across the lake towards Algonquin is delivering quite nicely. The first jaunt is an entertaining bounce across small waves that ends at the mouth of the Anable du Fond River.
I smile as I approach the Anable du Fond; I love journeys that include river travel. It is a delightful change of pace from the sameness of lake travel, offering an entirely different experience, including an increased likelihood of seeing wildlife. The Anable du Fond snakes its way between Kawawaymog lake and North Tea Lake. It is about 3km as the crow flies, but the seemingly endless curves of a slow, snaking river double it. Not a worry though, the day is beautiful in a pristine forest. Content, I paddle along while snacking on fresh blueberries.
The going is a bit harder than I had expected. The river is full of vegetation that has saturated the river floor and is tall enough to reach the surface, making it feel like paddling through slush. Fortunately, the river's weak current is flowing with me; I still have it pretty easy. Tomorrow will be a bit more daunting fighting against both the current and the weeds.
Eventually, I reach the first portage; it is about as easy as portages get at a measly 70m. I am back in my boat, paddling in only a few minutes, enjoying a broader, straighter river. As I pull up to the second portage, I pass a family in a massive canoe with two small children nestled in the middle. One of them waves and exclaims: "Are you going the same way we did?" I wave back and reply: "I plan to, but maybe I should try to take my canoe down that rapid instead!" Everyone laughs, even though I secretly wish that waters were high enough that my joke could be the truth.
The second portage is also pitifully easy; it is about four times longer but is the same easy trail as the first. I'm done with portaging in a few short minutes and push into the waters of North Tea Lake. Like Kawawaymog, North Tea is a bit rowdy today; I quickly find myself bouncing along from one wave to the other. The day is still gorgeous and sunny.
I pass by an island campsite, two campers and their dog wave at me. I wave back, utterly fixated on the adorable puppy smiling at me. I glance back over my shoulder to check how high the sun still is in the sky. To my surprise, dark clouds are quickly forming behind me. Oh crap! Where did those come from? I guess I had better stop lingering. I'd prefer a storm hit after my shelter is set up, and I still have a lot of lake between me and my destination.
I paddle harder and harder, keeping an eye on the building storm at my back. The sun is completely hidden, and the horizon is the iconic streaky curtain of pounding rain in the distance. Motivated, each stroke is a bit more passionate than its predecessor. Somehow I manage to pull into a vacant campsite just as the rain starts to lightly cover the landscape. Hastily I set up camp while bracing for an onslaught.
The rain stops to my surprise and delight; I glance down the lake and notice that the dark clouds have thinned, and I see sunlight again. Looks like the storm accepted its embarrassing defeat by my mighty mad dash in our race to shore. Instead of having a wet evening, I get to enjoy a campfire. Smitten, I begin collecting firewood and quickly ignite an inferno. Before long, the fire burns down, and I rearrange it into a cooking fire to enjoy a well-earned meal.
After gorging myself on an unreasonable amount of pasta, the rain makes a triumphant return. I quickly pack up my cooking gear with a groan; the dark clouds have returned to the horizon. This time I don't think they will be going away. I climb into my tent as the light drizzle turns to total downpour. A downpour that ends up lasting for eight hours. Jokes on you, Zeus! I have a tent and a movie on my phone! Toss your bolts all you want; I'm comfy, dry, and entertained.
I climb out of the tent at first light. The rain stopped, but the wind is here and in force. My first consideration is that I should just climb back into bed, I remind myself that the wind may bring fresh rain, so I had better pack up and get moving. I'd rather be well on my way home before dealing with a torrential downpour than having to pack up camp in it.
The paddle back across North Tea Lake is a workout, to say the least; the heavy wind is determined to point itself directly in my path, making every stroke a battle. The North Tea crossing takes a whole hour longer than it did yesterday, and I work twice as hard to do it. By the time I reach the first portage, I'm already pooped and know the paddle back up the Anable du Frond is going to be a battle as well. Misery and I are old friends; I am too stubborn to let it win.
After what seems like an eternity of hard paddling, I finally pull into the far shore of Kawawaymog lake to begin my drive home. What an epic weekend, I'm gonna be sore tomorrow! (Actually, I'm sore right now, but tomorrow is going to be a whole different level)
