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Halloween in the Frontenac Backcountry

HikingRyan CooperNov 03, 2020

Halloween is, of course, best spent in the backcountry camping surrounded by barren trees beneath a full moon. 

Ever since I was too old to run around the neighborhood demanding free candy in exchange for a fleeting glimpse of me in a glorious costume, I more or less ignored Halloween. Not because I don't like Halloween, but just because for adults, it generally means parties. This year, rather than sit at home, I decided to head into the backcountry. 

I arrive in Frontenac on a magnificently beautiful day. The sun is shining, and I am excited to be on the trail. The hike to my campsite at the far tip of Big Salmon Lake is about seven kilometers through rocky hills. Enough effort to get my blood pumping but nothing crazy. 

The hike is pretty uneventful. A carpet of fallen leaves makes for a surreal landscape. Not as beautiful as other times of year but still charged with a degree of haunting delight. Wildlife is few and far between. I encounter the odd bird and a particularly boisterous snake as it scurries back into the brush. 

Upon arrival at the campsite, I suddenly realize a rather annoying design flaw in its location. The site itself is right at the far end of a long lake (Big Salmon) while also being nestled in the mouth of a ravine. It looks like I will be camping at the gate of a wind tunnel. Wonderful. 

Setting up the tent turns out to be nearly as much effort as the hike itself. Fortunately, I know a few tricks for setting up a tent in gale-force winds and finally get the thing up. The tent is my new Mountain Hardwear EV2 Winter Expedition Tent. Overkill for a sunny fall day, but I wanted to try out my new toy. 

As the day continues, I explore and collect firewood. The afternoon is terrific. As the sun falls low in the sky, I start my fire. Igniting the fire is easy. The wood in Frontenac is dry, quick to light. I didn't expect such an easy time in a season usually iconic for rain. 

I spend the evening enjoying the fire while cooking far too many hotdogs. The night slowly forms its embrace of blackness. Around nine, however, I notice the world seems to be getting brighter again. Confused, I look around and realize that the moon is so bright that it is literally lighting up the forest around me. It is not bright like daytime, but enough that I don't even need a flashlight to walk around in the middle of the night—a fitting and eerie experience for Halloween. 

The next morning I wake to a pounding wind and quickly jump up to start making breakfast. Within about an hour, I have a full stomach and a stuffed backpack so head off into the morning gloom. 

As I make my way back towards civilization, rain begins to shower down. Not torrential downpour, by any means, but enough to mess with visibility. I don't mind the rain, especially when it is kind enough to wait until I pack away camp before showing up. However, I am mildly frustrated when I suddenly realize that I missed a turn and have been walking in the wrong direction for a few kilometers. After grumbling at my stupidity, I backtrack and make my way along the muddy trail back to my car.

It is time for lunch.

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